Here is a step-by-step guide to drafting a pattern for a wrap dress:
- Separate the torso into a bodice and a skirt.
- Rotate the bodice shoulder dart closed.
- Draw a vertical line somewhere in the middle of your paper. This will be the center line.
- Mark point 1 on the center line, which is the length of your dress from the shoulder to the waist.
- Mark point 2 on the center line, which is the length of your dress from the waist to the hem.
- Mark point 3 on the center line, which is the length of your waist to the side seam.
- Draw a horizontal line from point 3 to the left side of the paper. This is the waistline.
- Draw a diagonal line from the left side of the paper to point 1. This is the front neckline.
- Draw a diagonal line from the left side of the paper to point 2. This is the hemline.
- Draw a diagonal line from point 1 to point 3. This is the armhole.
- Draw a diagonal line from point 3 to point 2. This is the side seam.
- Cut out the pattern pieces and transfer them to your fabric.
- Sew the bodice and skirt pieces together at the waistline.
- Hem the bottom of the skirt and sleeves (if applicable).
- Finish the neckline and armholes with bias tape or facing.
Choosing the Right Fabric
Consider the drape
When choosing the fabric for your wrap dress, it is important to consider the drape of the fabric. The drape refers to how the fabric hangs or falls when it is worn. A fabric with a good drape will flow nicely and enhance the overall look of the dress. Fabrics such as silk, chiffon, and rayon are known for their beautiful drape and are often chosen for wrap dresses to create a flattering silhouette.
Select the appropriate weight
The weight of the fabric is another important factor to consider when drafting a pattern for a wrap dress. The weight of the fabric will determine how the dress falls on your body and how it moves when you walk. Lighter weight fabrics are often preferred for a flowing and more relaxed look, while heavier fabrics can add structure and create a more formal appearance. Consider the occasion and the desired look when choosing the fabric weight for your wrap dress.
Take into account stretch and comfort
When selecting fabric for a wrap dress, it is important to consider the level of stretch and comfort. Wrap dresses are known for their versatility and ability to flatter different body types. Using a fabric with a bit of stretch can help the dress fit more comfortably and allow for ease of movement. Fabrics such as jersey knit or stretch cotton are commonly used for wrap dresses as they provide both stretch and comfort.
Taking Accurate Body Measurements
Measure bust, waist, and hip
Before you can start drafting the pattern for your wrap dress, you need to take accurate body measurements. Start by measuring your bust, waist, and hip. These measurements will serve as the foundation for determining the size of your pattern. Use a flexible measuring tape and make sure it is snug against your body, but not too tight. Record the measurements accurately to ensure a proper fit.
Measure shoulder width
In addition to bust, waist, and hip measurements, you should also measure your shoulder width. This measurement will help determine the proper placement of the sleeves and the fit of the dress across your upper body. To measure your shoulder width, start at the edge of one shoulder and measure across to the edge of the other shoulder. Be sure to keep the measuring tape level and straight.
Determine desired dress length
Lastly, consider the desired length of your wrap dress. You can measure from your shoulder down to your desired dress length or measure from your waist if you prefer a more specific hemline. Taking accurate body measurements will ensure that the final dress fits you perfectly and flatters your figure.
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Creating a Base Pattern
Gather necessary supplies
Before you start drafting the pattern for your wrap dress, gather all the necessary supplies. These may include pattern paper, rulers, measuring tape, drafting tools, pencils, erasers, and scissors. Having the right tools at hand will make the pattern drafting process much smoother and more efficient.
Prepare the foundation garment
To create a base pattern for your wrap dress, you will need a well-fitting foundation garment. This can be a basic dress block or a garment similar in style to the wrap dress you envision. The purpose of the foundation garment is to act as a guide for creating the pattern, ensuring that the proportions and fit are accurate.
Develop the bodice pattern
Using your foundation garment as a guide, begin by drafting the bodice pattern for your wrap dress. Start by tracing the front and back pieces of the foundation garment onto the pattern paper. Make any necessary adjustments or modifications to achieve the desired fit and style of your wrap dress. Pay attention to the neckline, armholes, and dart placements. Once you are satisfied with the bodice pattern, move on to the next step of drafting the front bodice pattern.
Drafting the Front Bodice Pattern
Divide the front bodice into panels
To create a wrap effect, the front bodice of your wrap dress will typically consist of multiple panels. These panels will overlap when the dress is worn, creating the wrap illusion. Divide the front bodice pattern into sections, typically three or four, depending on the desired look. Take into consideration the size of the overlap and wrap when dividing the panels.
Calculate the wrap and overlap dimensions
To determine the dimensions of the wrap and overlap, consider the desired fit and style of your wrap dress. Measure the distance between the edge of the front bodice pattern and the center front, and use this measurement to calculate the wrap and overlap dimensions. The wrap should be wide enough to provide suitable coverage, while the overlap should be wide enough to allow for secure closure.
Add seam allowances
Once you have divided the front bodice pattern into panels and calculated the wrap and overlap dimensions, it is important to add seam allowances to each pattern piece. Seam allowances are added to the edges of the pattern pieces to account for the stitching and finishing of the garment. Common seam allowance measurements are ⅝ inch or 1 centimeter. Be sure to add the same seam allowance to all edges that will be sewn together.
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Drafting the Back Bodice Pattern
Create a separate back pattern
While the front bodice pattern is divided into panels for the wrap effect, the back bodice pattern is typically one solid piece. Start by tracing the back piece of your foundation garment onto pattern paper, or use the existing pattern if you are creating a new pattern from scratch. Make any necessary adjustments to achieve the desired fit and style of your wrap dress.
Adjust for darts or shaping
When drafting the back bodice pattern, consider any darts or shaping that may be necessary to ensure a proper fit. Darts are common in bodice patterns as they provide shaping and allow the garment to contour to the body. Use your measurements and fit preferences to determine if any darts or other shaping techniques are needed for your wrap dress.
Include seam allowances
Just like with the front bodice pattern, it is important to add seam allowances to the back bodice pattern. Be consistent with the seam allowance measurements to ensure proper alignment when sewing the garment together. Seam allowances are especially important in areas where the back bodice pattern meets the front panels to create a smooth and professional finish.
Drafting the Skirt Pattern
Determine the desired skirt style
The skirt of a wrap dress can vary in style and shape, so it is important to determine the desired style before drafting the pattern. Consider whether you want an A-line skirt, a straight skirt, or a gathered skirt. This decision will affect the measurements and pattern drafting process.
Measurements for A-line, straight, or gathered skirts
For an A-line skirt, measure the desired width at the hip or waist and use this measurement to draft the skirt pattern. For a straight skirt, measure the desired width at the hip and waist, ensuring it is consistent. For a gathered skirt, determine the desired fullness and calculate the necessary width and length to achieve the desired effect.
Consider length and hemline
Lastly, consider the length and hemline of the skirt. Measure from your waist or desired waistline down to the desired length. Keep in mind any preferences for a straight or curved hemline. Add seam allowances to both the sides and hem of the skirt pattern to allow for sewing and finishing.
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Drafting the Sleeves
Choose sleeve length and style
The sleeves of a wrap dress can vary in length and style, so it is important to choose the desired sleeve options before drafting the pattern. Consider whether you want short sleeves, long sleeves, or sleeveless options. Additionally, think about the desired shape and fit of the sleeves, as this will influence the pattern drafting process.
Draft the sleeve pattern pieces
To draft the sleeve pattern pieces, start by tracing the armscye (armhole) from your bodice pattern onto the pattern paper. Use the armscye as a guide to determine the shape and size of the sleeve cap. Measure and mark the desired length and width for the sleeve at the hem, making any necessary adjustments to achieve the desired fit.
Add seam allowances and any desired cuffs
Once you have drafted the sleeve pattern pieces, remember to add seam allowances to all edges that will be sewn. Seam allowances are typically added to the side seams and the sleeve hem. If you plan to include cuffs on the sleeves, draft them separately and add seam allowances.
Adding Essential Markings
Identify grainlines on each pattern piece
When finalizing your pattern, it is important to identify the grainlines on each pattern piece. The grainline indicates the direction of the fabric’s fibers and is crucial for proper fabric placement and cutting. Mark the grainline on each pattern piece, ensuring that it aligns with the straight grain of the fabric when laid out for cutting.
Mark notches for matching seams
Notches are another important marking to include on your pattern pieces. Notches are small triangular markings that help match seams and ensure that pattern pieces are sewn together correctly. Add notches to areas such as the neckline, armholes, bust, and waist to aid in the assembly of your wrap dress.
Include placement lines for pockets or other details
If your wrap dress includes pockets or other design details, it is important to include placement lines on your pattern pieces. Placement lines indicate where these elements should be placed when sewing the garment together. This will ensure that any pockets or details are accurately positioned and enhance the overall finished look of your dress.
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Finalizing the Pattern
Review and refine the pattern pieces
Before preparing the final pattern, take the time to review and refine each pattern piece. Check for any inconsistencies, inaccuracies, or areas that require adjustment. Make any necessary changes to ensure that the pattern pieces fit together cohesively and accurately represent your desired wrap dress design.
Ensure patterns fit together smoothly
Once you are satisfied with each individual pattern piece, ensure that they fit together smoothly. Place them together, aligning the notches and other corresponding markings. Double-check the sizing and proportions to ensure that the pattern is balanced and accurate.
Double-check all measurements and markings
Before moving on to preparing the final pattern, it is crucial to double-check all measurements and markings. This step ensures that everything is accurate and ready for the next stage of the dressmaking process. Take your time and carefully review each pattern piece to avoid any potential issues during construction.
Preparing the Final Pattern
Transfer the revised pattern to pattern paper
After finalizing the pattern, it is time to transfer the most recent version onto pattern paper. Lay your pattern paper flat and trace each pattern piece onto the paper, using a pencil or other suitable marking tool. Take care to accurately transfer all lines, markings, and notations.
Trace and label each pattern piece
Once the pattern pieces have been transferred, trace them onto the pattern paper to create clean, final copies. Include all necessary labels and notations, such as the name of each pattern piece, grainline indicators, and any other important information for construction purposes.
Include notations and important information
To ensure clarity and ease during the dressmaking process, include any additional notations or important information on the pattern. This can include specific fabric recommendations, construction steps, or any modifications made to the original pattern. These notations will serve as a valuable reference when you begin sewing your wrap dress.
In conclusion, drafting a pattern for a wrap dress requires careful consideration of fabric choice, accurate body measurements, and step-by-step drafting techniques. By selecting the right fabric, carefully measuring your body, and meticulously drafting and finalizing the pattern, you can create a well-fitting and stylish wrap dress that suits your personal preferences and flatters your figure.
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